Black Tie Etiquette

Black Tie is a wonderful dress code for any formal event. Timeless and elegant, it guarantees a host that no one will look out of place, however, as a guest it can get confusing with the strict decorum that evening wear presents. This post provides a transparent outline for dressing in black tie; head to toe.

The tuxedo

First thing is first, the star of the show: the tuxedo. It goes without saying that purchasing your own tuxedo is paramount and is a worthy investment that will last for years, or even decades. Rented tuxedos tend to be ill-fitting and can often look quite drab from over-use. If you are buying a tuxedo off the rack it should always be altered for a tailored fit, nonetheless, your best option is having one made.

Your tuxedo should be either black or midnight blue (which can appear black under artificial light) and made from a lightweight (240-280g/m) wool and mohair blend cloth. Mohair provides ideal temperature regulation, impeccable crease resistance and, most importantly, excellent drape.

The tuxedo jacket should be made with one-button with either a peak or shawl lapel, yet a double-breasted jacket is certainly acceptable and quite dapper for those willing to be a little more bold. Satin, either plain satin or grosgrain, should grace the lapel, lower jacket pocket besoms, and jacket buttons..

Trousers should be made without belt loops or cuffs - less is more when it comes to black tie. Back pockets or side tabs may not even be necessary either, that is personal preference. Matching satin to the jacket should also don the outseam of the trousers.

Tuxedo Shirt

A wonderfully bright and light white cotton is preferable for your tuxedo shirt, which can be made with either a covered placket, pleats or a Marcella bib. A typical spread collar or wing-tip collar are equally adequate, but the shirt must have French cuffs.

Accessories

Albeit, as the tuxedo is the focal point of your ensemble, your accessories certainly complete the entire look. These include the following:

Cufflinks - feel free to express your personal style here
Tuxedo studs, when required in either black onyx, white Mother of Pearl or gold
Suspenders, in either black or white
White pocket square, in either cotton or linen
A cumberbund is certainly not out of place, unless you are borrowing your uncle’s fuchsia number from 1986.
Your watch should be minimal in size and design. Think a Santos de Cartier, Reverso, Girard-Perregaux 1966 Automatic or Rolex 1908.
A silk scarf can certainly add a rakish overtone to your tuxedo for events outside on crisper evenings.

Lastly, the the bow-tie which should match the satin of your tuxedo. One should always try to use a self-tie bow-tie rather than a pre-tied one. Neck ties are a strictly off limits for black tie.

Watch here for how to tie a bow-tie.

Cornwell Oxfords in black patent leather from Gaziano & Girling

Shoes

Black tie shoes should always be patent black oxfords or loafers, which the exception of a velvet loafer. All established shoemakers offer black tie shoes including Church’s, Crockett & Jones, Santoni, Gaziano & Girling, and Boudoin & Lange to name a few. Stubbs & Wootton offer a wide selection of both solid and fun motif slippers, which can also be personalized with your monogram.

Alternate dinner jackets

If you attend multiple black tie events a year, you can add some flair to your evening wear wardrobe by commissioning a bolder dinner jacket. A velvet dinner jacket is ideal for fall and winter galas, a vivid paisley can work wonders at a themed event, and look no further than an ivory dinner jacket as a groom.

When it doubt - keep it simple and stick to this guideline. Nothing is more debonair that a man in a well-fitted black tuxedo.